On our way South recently, we stopped at Troyes south of Paris. In spite of our regular extensive travel through France we had previously ignored it. What an oversight!  It's certainly a town that we shall visit again. The centre is a historic gem, a complete town of colombage, or timber framed buildings, from the 16th and 17th centuries, rebuilt after the fire of 1524. Stunningly intact, it gives a glimpse into the lives of the mercantile classes, as Troyes was a large trading centre at this time.

Troyes also has several churches dating from the 13th and 14th centuries, the most important being the cathedral, which has a wonderful stained glass window. During the 13th century the Knights Templars were based here, and local rumour has it that buried treasure from the crusades is hidden here; the Ark of the Covenant perhaps? In an alleyway by the side of the cathedral is the Museum of Modern Art which contains works by Picasso, Braque, and Modigliani, to name just a few of the hundreds of works.

La Maison de Rhodes, named after the Knights Templars whose home it was in the 13th and 14th centuries, is an hotel whose ambiance allows a full enjoyment of this historic town. It's a trifle on the expensive side for France, but the building has been sensitively and tastefully restored and our room exuded an understated elegance.  The restaurant we thought too expensive and so avoided; the usual Continental breakfast was also expensive, but altogether it was a very pleasant experience.

We highly recommend a visit to Troyes.

La Maison de Rhodes

18 rue Linard Gonthier

10000 Troyes

Tel.: ++33/(0)3 25 43 11 11

 www.maisonderhodes.com 

Heading toward Le Puy on a recent trip we found the snow getting heavier and heavier with snow-ploughs behind us and oncoming cars covered in thick snow. We figured that soon the road would be impassable. There was nothing for it, but to turn around and flee towards the slightly warmer climes of Montpelier a few hundred kilometres south.

The discovery of the Hotel du Parc in the centre of Montpelier, a town mostly ruined by recent construction, particularly the almost Disney town shopping centre (not what we seek out), lightened our spirits. It is our kind of place, family-run with care. The hotel is in an old eighteenth century house with a courtyard, and whilst the rooms are small, they are decorated individually it all costs a very reasonable 65 Euros. Breakfast also went beyond the expected, and tea was nicely served with the tea bag already in the teapot (and not as is common in France by the side of the pot with the water having gone off the boil a long time ago). We took this pleasant respite with gusto as the unexpected diversion, had added another day to our expedition to meet with potters in the Drome Provencal. More about that soon.