Bordeaux is probably one of France's most bourgeois cities, having built its wealth on trading and wine. For many years its beautiful sandstone buildings had become neglected and grey and there was an air of stuffiness and snobbery about the place. All that has been thoroughly dusted down and transformed of late, a good example of how cites can be revived. Now there is a new tramway sytem, a cool river front and students using the many bicycle paths. Behind the recently restored Bourse is an area of streets and squares; a world away from the Hermes and Dior shops of the main street, l'Intendance. It's an altogether more interesting mix of small boutiques, cafes and bistros with terraces to sit and eat outside. The rythm here is one of late starts, so don't arrive before 11.00. Check out the following:

1)Au Denicheur Antique shop  This little treasure trove is a wonderful mix (see picture below)

2)Toscane 6 Rue Du Cancera  05 56 01 12 18. If you enjoy traditional Italian Degustazione menus you will just love this place,

3)La Fromentine Rue du Pas Saint Georges, a very individual creperie!

What better way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon, than to go to a "vide grenier". This emptying of the lofts is a French tradition, which almost every village has. The events are well publicised by bill posters and flyers left on cars on market day. They are an opportunity to divest oneself of all the years' accumulated clutter, or to add some more.

They are a haven also for brocanteurs selling the left-overs from house clearances, but you never know you just might find.............

On route D117 from Perpignan to Quillan, just before St. Paul de Fenouilles at Maury (famous for its wine) you turn right to Château de Quéribus. This outpost of the cathars, sits on a 790 metre peak, and then rises imperiously for another 30 metres or so. Its form is so much part of the hill that it looks as though it has been carved, or maybe placed there by a giant hand. The 360 degree views are utterly magnificient, with both the Pyrenees and the Montagnes Noires visible, whilst Peyrepertuse the old border castle of the counts of Aragon who ruled this region until 1659 is almost within touching reach, seperated only by the valley of Cucugnan. This deserted land carries so many cries from our collective past, containing so much history and dramatic scenery, while remaining relatively unaffected by tourism.

Amongst its other attractions are:

The Gorges of Galamus (really not good for caravans or camper vans)

Tautavel, where the oldest skull in Europe has been found; 450,000 years old!

Latour-de France, and Belesta, both bastide villages.

This area is becoming rightly famous for its wine making. Try the following:

Clot de l'Oum ( Eric Monne) or Domaine de la Pertuisane (Mark Hoddy) or Domaine Pauderoux (Robert Pouderoux), to name a few.

Restaurants:

At Maury, Pascal Borrell. In Cucugnan, Auberge de Vigneron, and Auberge de Cucugnan.

On our way South recently, we stopped at Troyes south of Paris. In spite of our regular extensive travel through France we had previously ignored it. What an oversight!  It's certainly a town that we shall visit again. The centre is a historic gem, a complete town of colombage, or timber framed buildings, from the 16th and 17th centuries, rebuilt after the fire of 1524. Stunningly intact, it gives a glimpse into the lives of the mercantile classes, as Troyes was a large trading centre at this time.

Troyes also has several churches dating from the 13th and 14th centuries, the most important being the cathedral, which has a wonderful stained glass window. During the 13th century the Knights Templars were based here, and local rumour has it that buried treasure from the crusades is hidden here; the Ark of the Covenant perhaps? In an alleyway by the side of the cathedral is the Museum of Modern Art which contains works by Picasso, Braque, and Modigliani, to name just a few of the hundreds of works.

La Maison de Rhodes, named after the Knights Templars whose home it was in the 13th and 14th centuries, is an hotel whose ambiance allows a full enjoyment of this historic town. It's a trifle on the expensive side for France, but the building has been sensitively and tastefully restored and our room exuded an understated elegance.  The restaurant we thought too expensive and so avoided; the usual Continental breakfast was also expensive, but altogether it was a very pleasant experience.

We highly recommend a visit to Troyes.

La Maison de Rhodes

18 rue Linard Gonthier

10000 Troyes

Tel.: ++33/(0)3 25 43 11 11

 www.maisonderhodes.com 

Heading toward Le Puy on a recent trip we found the snow getting heavier and heavier with snow-ploughs behind us and oncoming cars covered in thick snow. We figured that soon the road would be impassable. There was nothing for it, but to turn around and flee towards the slightly warmer climes of Montpelier a few hundred kilometres south.

The discovery of the Hotel du Parc in the centre of Montpelier, a town mostly ruined by recent construction, particularly the almost Disney town shopping centre (not what we seek out), lightened our spirits. It is our kind of place, family-run with care. The hotel is in an old eighteenth century house with a courtyard, and whilst the rooms are small, they are decorated individually it all costs a very reasonable 65 Euros. Breakfast also went beyond the expected, and tea was nicely served with the tea bag already in the teapot (and not as is common in France by the side of the pot with the water having gone off the boil a long time ago). We took this pleasant respite with gusto as the unexpected diversion, had added another day to our expedition to meet with potters in the Drome Provencal. More about that soon.