LAND OF THE FENOUILLèDES

On route D117 from Perpignan to Quillan, just before St. Paul de Fenouilles at Maury (famous for its wine) you turn right to Château de Quéribus. This outpost of the cathars, sits on a 790 metre peak, and then rises imperiously for another 30 metres or so. Its form is so much part of the hill that it looks as though it has been carved, or maybe placed there by a giant hand. The 360 degree views are utterly magnificient, with both the Pyrenees and the Montagnes Noires visible, whilst Peyrepertuse the old border castle of the counts of Aragon who ruled this region until 1659 is almost within touching reach, seperated only by the valley of Cucugnan. This deserted land carries so many cries from our collective past, containing so much history and dramatic scenery, while remaining relatively unaffected by tourism.

Amongst its other attractions are:

The Gorges of Galamus (really not good for caravans or camper vans)

Tautavel, where the oldest skull in Europe has been found; 450,000 years old!

Latour-de France, and Belesta, both bastide villages.

This area is becoming rightly famous for its wine making. Try the following:

Clot de l'Oum ( Eric Monne) or Domaine de la Pertuisane (Mark Hoddy) or Domaine Pauderoux (Robert Pouderoux), to name a few.

Restaurants:

At Maury, Pascal Borrell. In Cucugnan, Auberge de Vigneron, and Auberge de Cucugnan.