The Corbières

Just inland from the Mediterranean coast of Narbonne, lies the rugged wind-swept Corbières, which is worth a little detour. We started our tour with Frontfroide, a magnificent abbey founded in 1093 and a highpoint of cistercian architecture; it is from here that the Cathars were persecuted. After admiring this austere abbey we took the road to Lagrasse which took us through the heart of the Corbières. This rugged countryside used to produce country wines of little note, but the wines from this region have improved by leaps and bounds over the past decade, so after visiting the abbey, what better way to sup in the flavour of the countryside than to try a couple of tastings. Just off the road between Frontfroide  and Lagrasse is Château Beauregard, where the eighth generation of vignerons, Nicolas Mirouze, is blending Syrah and Grenache to produce a wine of excellent price/quality relationship, for only 6 Euros. 

Lagrasse is a wonderful little village perched on the river valley overlooking its abbey. Inside the village there is another church which has a couple of wonderful medieval stained glass windows and copious amounts of paintings and sculptures. The 15th century square with its covered market place is one of the most authentic we have seen; unrestored it has retained its patina of transactions from the past, whilst playing host to potters, a metal workshop and other artisans in the present. The village has a slightly alternative feel to it, having attracted many young arty types. One gets the sense of a vibrant community. Unfortuantly the abbey was closed when we visited as it is only open at weekends off- season.